LEFT: The parts as they come out of
The Corsair arrived on my doorstep double
boxed in perfect shape. I quickly opened the box and examined all of the
parts. The picture above was borrowed from the GSP website and perfectly
illustrates what is contained in the box. The fuselage, wing center
section, and cowl are constructed of fiberglass and prepainted. The outer
wing panels are constructed of foam and balsa, and the tail feathers are
cloth covered balsa and painted to match. The instruction manual is
typical of kits imported from China. It features a lot of drawings, but
very little text.
The Corsair's wing is assembled from
three separate pieces; the outer wing panels and the center section. The
outer panels are foam core sheeted with balsa and covered in a cloth
covering and painted The wing center section is constructed of molded
fiberglass with plywood formers.
LEFT: Aileron Servo Hatches
RIGHT: Servo Mounting Plate
The wing assembly begins by removing the covering from the servo bay
opening on each outer wing panel. Using a sharp knife, I removed the
covering cutting about 1/8" inside the perimeter. I then ironed down
this material with my iron to ensure that the covering would not peel up
at a later date. Next you need to install the hardwood servo mounting
blocks with epoxy to the 2 removable servo hatches. I used 5 minute
epoxy on the blocks and clamped them in place. Once cured, I installed a
Hitec HS-425BB servo on each hatch. I used a 12" servo extension on each
aileron and slid them through the opening in the wing. I attached the
servo hatch with the supplied screws.
LEFT: Aileron Attached to Wing
RIGHT: Aileron Linkage
Next I installed the control horn on each aileron and then epoxied the
ailerons onto each wing panel. They give you CA type hinges but with the
foam in the wing panel it is a good Idea to use either a finishing epoxy
or 30 minute epoxy thinned with alcohol. At this time you will also
attach the single flap panel to each outer wing. Once the ailerons were
attached, I made up the pushrods for each wing and installed them to the
servo and control horn. I tested their operation to ensure that
everything worked smoothly without binding then I set the panels aside.
At this time the manual would have you attach the wing panels to the
center section. Because I am going to use the Robart Retracts, I decided
to wait to make it easier to work on the wing center section.
The next step was to install the remaining 2 of the 3
flap sections to the wing center section. Again these were attached with
CA type hinges and epoxy. Note: Because
the finish on the plane was done with a flat paint, you will need to be
very careful not to get too messy when using epoxy or you may jeopardize
the finish. With the flaps installed, the next step was to
install the control horns on the inner flap panel on each wing.
LEFT: Stock Flap Cables
RIGHT: Stock Flap Cable Exit. Note
2 Inner Flaps Attached
The kit is designed to have a single servo in the
wings center section that will operate the flaps in a push-pull fashion.
I setup the cables as instructed and was planning on using a standard
servo. With the flaps connected, I hooked up the radio to test their
operation and I quickly noticed a problem. The servo I chose was simply
too weak to move the flaps correctly. I switched to a 100 oz. servo and
was able to get them to work. I did have a problem with the retraction
and deployment angles being different and inconsistent each time the
flaps were activated. There is nothing worse than having one flap
operate at a different angle from the other or worse yet, causing you a
trim problem when one does not retract all the way. This was something
that I decided to modify.
My plan after discussing with other GSP corsair
owners was to install a servo in each wing to control the flaps. I
decided to use the Hitec 225MG servos because they are powerful and
small. I marked where their location and cut a hole on either side of
the wing center section on the bottom side. Because this is just
fiberglass, it would be necessary to install a small piece of plywood
for the servo screws to catch in each opening. I used 5 minute epoxy to
hold them in. Once installed, I simply created a pushrod with a Z Bend
on the servo horn and a clevis on the control horn.
LEFT: Flap Servo Installation
RIGHT: Flap Deployed
I connected the flap servos with a Y Connector and
tested their operation. I then noticed that one flap went up as the
other went down. It would be necessary to either install a servo
reverser on one of the servos or use a programming mix in my radio.
Because I was using the Futaba 9C, I decided that I would mix channels 6
and 7 together for the flaps. Another advantage to the setup is the
ability to set the end points individually with the radio. This will
ensure that they go up and down in the exact same positions. They worked
flawlessly. This is a simple modification that takes only
a few minutes and does not hurt the aesthetics of the
finished model. I would highly recommend it.
Alternative Flap Servo Installation:
If you would like to use 2 servos and do not
want to cut the bottom of the wing, an alternative would be to mount the
2 mini servos in the wing center section and use the existing pushrods.
There is a servo tray in the center that houses 2 standard servos, one
for mechanical retracts and the other is for the flaps. You could easily
modify the tray and install the 2 servos for the flaps.
There are a few options to consider when it comes to
the landing gear. The kit comes with fixed landing gear wires and
mounting hardware. This would be the simplest method of putting legs and
feet on this bird as long as you do not mind having the gear down all
the time. Once you see how beautiful this plane is, you will understand
why I could not settle for a fixed gear. The Corsair was begging for
The manual includes some hardware and instructions on
installing a pair of mechanical rotating retracts. The retracts would be
activated by a servo in the wings center section. A series of pushrods
and bell cranks would then connect the servo horn to the retracts. I
considered this option, but was concerned about using all those
mechanical linkages. I wanted to ensure that the retracts would be
reliable. There is nothing worse than having a retract fail on landing.
So I turned to our friends at Robart and decided that a pair of 615HD
Rotating Retracts, Oleo Struts, and scale tires would be the answer.
Installing the Robart Retracts was a
little more involved than perhaps I was hoping for.
(See inset below for installation details.) It was not
difficult, but it did take a couple extra hours to install them
properly. You need to begin by enlarging the opening in the fiberglass
to the size of the retract base including the mounting flanges. This
was easily accomplished with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. The
next step is to enlarge the opening in the wooden mounting rails that
are already in the wing for the fixed landing gear. The body of the
retract is about 1/2" wider than the opening presently in the mounting
assembly. I used my Dremel again with a sanding drum to enlarge the
opening. The Robart retracts will also require the mounting rails to
be raised so they are flush with the wings lower surface.
Note: the mechanical retracts and the
fixed landing gear are designed to recess in the wing. The rails are
already installed in the wing and therefore no modifications would be
required. I took a small piece of cardboard and placed it in
the opening against the existing mounting rail and traced along the
wings outer surface. This gave me an exact template of the mounting
In order for these retracts to work
properly, it is very important that the mounting rails are flat and
even or the mechanics in the retracts could bind hampering their
performance. In order to assure that the mounts would work correctly,
I decided to laminate several pieces of 1/4" aircraft plywood together
so that it was large enough for all 4 mounts. The mount ended up being
about 1 1/4" high at the thickest spot. They would also have to be
tapered towards the wings leading edge. I used a belt sander to get
the correct taper until they matched my template. Now that I was sure
they would fit, using a band saw, I cut the laminated plywood into 4
separate mounts measuring 3/8" wide. This assured me that they were
all exactly the same height and angle.
Next I test fit the new mounts in the
wing. They worked out perfectly with the mounting surface lining up
with the wings outer surface. I checked the opening with the new
mounts to ensure that the retract would fit correctly then I
permanently installed them in the wing using a very generous amount of
30 minute epoxy. I made sure to coat all sides of the new mounting
blocks heavily. I did not what them to break loose on takeoff or
landing. I let them cure overnight before installing the retracts.
I decided not to use the plastic wheel
wells because they would restrict how far the retract would settle
into the wing leaving the tire exposed on the wings surface. This
would surely cause some trim problems in flight.
When looking for a pair of high
quality rotating retracts to fit this Corsair, there are
really very few options to consider. I looked to Robart
because of their high quality, very realistic finished
appearance and reliability.
Robart Retract Components
Including: Scale Wheels, 90 Deg Rotating Retracts,
Oleo Struts, and Air Tank
The Robart 615HD retracts are
constructed of an aluminum base and internal mechanics to keep
them light. There is a preinstalled 3/16" strut wire on each
retract that can be cut down to size.
I used Robart 188VR air supply kit
which consists of the air tank, filler valve, T connectors,
hose, quick disconnects, control valve, and even a pressure
gauge. Everything that I needed to setup the retracts is
included in this kit.
A pair of 380 functional Oleo
Struts in a straight mount design were also used to further
dress up the aircraft while adding shock absorption.
Installing the oleos to the
retract wire is a very simple task. You need to determine how
much wire to cut off the retract to allow the oleo to end up
in the proper position. On the Corsair, because of the gull
wing, the actual length of the retracts is rather short. In
this installation both the oleos and the gear wire would have
to be cut. I cut the wire on the retracts with my Dremel tool
and cutoff wheel to a length of 3/4". Next I temporarily
placed the retract back in the wing and aligned the oleo over
the wire to determine where they would need to be cut. I
simply centered the axle opening in the center of the wheel
well and marked them at the retract.
Completed Retracts ready
to be installed in the Corsair.
The oleos were cut also with a
Dremel and cutoff wheel. The next step is to install the
bushing inside the oleos for the proper wire diameter. They
supply you with 2 sizes. I held the bushing in place with JB
Weld. Two small holes are then drilled in the top of the oleos
for the setscrews that will attach them to the gear wire. The
holes are then tapped with a 6-32 tap. I installed the
setscrews and placed the oleos over the retract wire,
positioned them correctly, and tightened the setscrews. This
will make an impression in the wire. Next, remove the oleo and
grind a flat spot in the gear wire using a Dremel or a file.
This will prevent the oleo from rotating on the wire.
Robart Air Tank Installed
on the Top of the Fuselage with Silicone Adhesive.
Once complete, I reinstalled the
oleos on the retracts and installed a pair of 3" scale Robart
wheels. These really dressed up with model giving it a very
scale appearance. The retracts were permanently installed with
The last step was to hook up the
plumbing and control valve to operate the retracts. I followed
the schematic that Robart includes with the air tank kit. This
really simplifies the process. I connected the control valve
to the center of the wing where the retract and flap servos
were supposed to go. I am controlling the valve with a
The Robart Air Fill
Outlet and Pressure Gage is Installed on the Front of
The Robart retracts worked
perfectly and give the model a very scale appearance. I would
highly recommend them for this model.
The last step in the wing assembly was to
install the outer wing panels. The first thing that I did was to scuff
the fiberglass on the ends of the center wing section to ensure a good
bond. Each panel has a dihedral brace. Using a generous amount of 30
minute epoxy, I attached the wing panels to the wing center section and
held them in place with masking tape. Lay the wing on a flat surface,
face up, and measure to make sure that the distance from the surface to
each wing tip is exactly the same.
Once cured I noticed that the joint was
pretty noticeable for each outer wing panel so I went to the local Home
Depot and with a sample of the blue paint. They were able to match me a
quart of flat latex that was a perfect match. This paint will also come
in handy in the event that the fiberglass ever gets dinged.
The final detail is to install the 2 oil
cooler scoops on either side of the wing. These are held in place with
30 minute epoxy.
Now it is time to attach the wing to the
fuselage. The first step is to drill our the two holes for the leading
edge wing dowels. There are plus (+) signs molded into the fiberglass to
indicate where the holes must be drilled. One really nice feature of the
wing assembly is that the dowels are actually made from steel. Once the
holes are drilled, I applied some 30 minute epoxy into the holes and
pressed the pins in place.
LEFT: Steel Pins on the Wing Center
to Attach the Wing to the Fuselage.
RIGHT: Wing Mount Holes
In the fuselage there are 2 corresponding
plus (+) signs that will also need to be drilled out to accept the wings
pins. Once this step is done, fit the wing into the fuselage. On my
model, everything lined up perfectly.
Next measure from each wingtip to the rear
center of the fuselage to ensure that the wing is square. Tape the rear
of the wing to the fuselage so it does not move. Drill 2 holes through
the wing into the fuselage in the marked locations for the wing hold
down bolts. Remove the wing and install 2 blind nuts in wing mount block
in the fuselage. Reinstall the wing and fasten with the supplied 4-40
That completes the assembly of the wing so we
are onto the fuselage!
The Fuselage is beautifully constructed of fiberglass with a few
plywood formers. The finish is expertly painted in 2 colors, and like
the wing center section, it features molded panel lines.
LEFT: Shot of the Inside Rear
Fuselage assembly beings by installing the
tail surfaces. Place the U shaped connector rod in the opening for the
horizontal stabilizer. You will not attach it at this time but if you
forget to put it in the opening you will not be able to install it
once the horizontal stabilizer is installed.
Midwest Products Aero Stand
|With the GSP Corsair having a
painted fiberglass fuselage, I wanted to be sure that I
was very careful while working on it. My new Midwest
Products Aero Stand was the perfect solution.
The Corsair Fuselage
on my Midwest Products Aero Stand.
The portable work
station designed with comfort in mind! At the field or in
the shop, Aero Stand is the easiest way to get your plane
up and ready to fly. Three position cradle adjusts to 4",
7" and 11" widths. Folds down easily for transport. The
overall height of the unit is 31" and the width is 27".
The Completed Corsair
on the Aero Stand at the Field.
If you are like I was, you probably have a
stand made from PVC pipe and some foam. Not anymore. This
stand is very rugged and allows me to walk around my model
while I work on it. This is something I was just never
able to do with my PVC stands.
Whether you fly a 40 size trainer or a
giant scale aerobat, the Aero Stand provides you with an
excellent, ergonomic work stand for your model.
This stand goes with me where ever I go!
Slide the stabilizer into the slot in the
fuselage and measure to the wing tips to ensure that it is in square.
Then mark the top and bottom surface of the stabilizer along the
fuselage side. Remove the stabilizer and then remove the covering just
inside the lines you made. Note: Save
this piece of covering that you remove. It will come in handy if you
need to ever get the paint matched. I brought mine to Home Depot and
was able to get both the gray and blue mixed to a perfect match.
The stabilizer gets installed to the fuselage with 30 minute
epoxy. Be sure that the stabilizer is installed level as well as
square. Once satisfied, hold it in place with masking tape.
LEFT: Horizontal Stab and Elevators
RIGHT: Elevator Pushrod and
Next you install the elevator halves. The
horizontal stabilizer and control surfaces have already been slotted
to accept CA hinges. You will need to drill a hole in each elevator
half for the U shaped connector rod. This rod allows both halves to
work as one. Ad some epoxy in the holes on the elevator halves and use
thin CA on the hinges. It is important to be sure that both elevator
halves are aligned perfectly as you do not have any room for
adjustment once the epoxy has cured.
The next step is to install the tail wheel
wire. You will need to cut a slot in the vertical stabilizer as
indicated in the instructions. There is a piece of copper tubing that
you need to slide over the tail wheel wire, then you bend the top of
the tail gear wire according to the drawing.
You need to drill a hole in the rudder for
the tail wheel wire. Fill the hole with 30 minute epoxy before
installing the rudder to the vertical fin. The rudder, like the
elevator halves, installs with CA hinges using thin CA. Install the
tail wheel to the wire using the supplied collar.
LEFT: Tailwheel Wire Installed with
RIGHT: Rudder Installed with
Next, install the rudder and elevator
control horns as shown in the instructions. You will need to construct
the elevator and rudder pushrods. This process is very simple as long
as you follow the diagrams in the manual. They have you use heat
shrink tubing to secure the wire to the pushrod. I prefer to use
thread wrapped around the pushrod ends and then soak it in thin CA.
This provides a much stronger connection. The pushrods are made from a
hardwood dowel and 2-56 wire on either end. They seemed to work well,
but I did notice that the elevator pushrod would bow at the extremes
of the elevator movement. After the test flight, I might change this
to a Dave Brown fiberglass rod if needed.
LEFT: Use Thread Soaked with Thin
CA to Attach Music Wire Pushrod to the Hardwood Dowel.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE
The next step is to mount the engine. I
chose the RCV 90SP to power this aircraft. The two main reasons that I
chose this engine are its ability to swing a larger more scale prop, and
it compact design would not require any cutting of the cowl for head
RCV 90SP Engine Installed on
Mounting Block to Bring the Prop Hub 168mm Away from the
According to the manual, the distance
between the firewall and the front of the prop hub needs to be
168mm. With the engine being only 120mm it was necessary to build a
mounting block on the firewall that was approximately 48mm thick.
The kit comes with a spacer block that
you might need to use if installing a 2 stroke engine. I used this
block as my template. I ended up making the block from a 2x4 and
some 1/4" plywood which I laminated together with 30 minute epoxy.
One problem I quickly noticed is the
3/4" hole in the center of the mounting block that is included with
the kit. This hole allows for the fuel tank lines to pass through.
The RCV 90SP has a flat radial mounting plate on the rear of the
engine that would prevent the fuel lines from entering the engine
compartment. My solution was to bore a 3/4" hole through the
mounting block in the same position as the one that came with the
kit. Then I bored a second hole at a 45 degree angle from the top of
the block. This allows the fuel lines to enter the engine area
without disrupting the mounting plate.
Hole Bored at a 45 Degree Angle
to allow Fuel Lines to Enter the Engine Area.
The first thing I did was mount the
engine to the mounting block. I marked the hole locations and
drilled 4 holes through the block. On the back side of the block, I
bored out the holes about 1/4" deep and with a large enough diameter
for the blind to be countersunk. Because of the thickness of the
mounting block, I was not able to use the supplied screws. I
purchased some 2 1/2" screws for mounting the engine and 3" for
mounting the block to the firewall.
Two Sets of Bolts Mount the
Engine. One Attaches the Engine to the Mounting Block and
the Other Attaches the Mounting Block to the Firewall.
The next step was to position the
mounting block on the firewall so the prop shaft is centered in the
cowl. Once aligned. drill 4 holes through the block and into the
firewall. I installed 4 blind nuts in the back side of the firewall.
I was going to epoxy the mounting block
to the firewall, but decided not to in case I decide to change
engines in the future.
With the engine installed I drilled a
hole for the throttle pushrod and installed the tube. I held it in
place with some thick CA.
(Note: The picture above shows
a remote glow driver. I decided to replace this with an
on-board glow driver - see review below)
RCV 90SP Closer Look
The RCV 90 SP
features a unique compact design.
The RCV SP
line of engines has been getting some raised eyebrows over
the past year. Its unique design leave people scratching
their heads wondering how this little power house works.
The SP series consists of 3 engine sizes; 60, 90, 1.20.
the following information from the RCV Engines website, as
I feel they do a much better job explaining the engine
that I could.
RCV 4-cycle engine has only one more moving
component than a 2-cycle engine -the rotating
cylinder itself. The cylinder is suspended
between two bearings which allow it to rotate freely
around the piston; the piston, and
crank are entirely conventional. A gear
formed around the base of the cylinder meshes with a
gear on the crank. As the piston reciprocates and
the crank turns, the cylinder rotates around the
At the top end of the rotating
cylinder there is a single port leading to the
combustion chamber. This is surrounded by a fixed
timing ring with three radially arranged ports;
inlet, ignition and exhaust. This simple valve
arrangement serves the combustion chamber as the
engine cycles through the conventional 4-cycles:
induction, compression, power and exhaust. Ignition
is achieved through a standard 4-cycle glow plug
exposed once only during each complete cycle.
The rotating cylinder is
effectively combined with the rotary valve in a
single component hence - RCV - Rotating
- Maximum Power: 1.3
- Length: 120mm
- Displacement: 15cc
(.09 cubic inch)
- Power Output: 1.6
BHP at 11,000 RPM
- Practical RPM
Range at the prop: 1,200 - 6,000 RPM
- Practical RPM
Range at the crankshaft: 2,400 - 12,000 RPM
- Crankshaft Thread
Size: 5/16" UNF
- Weight: w/o
Muffler - 28.6 oz. (785g)
manufacturer recommends this motor be run on fuel
containing 10% nitro methane and oil content at a minimum
of 15% including a maximum of 6% castor. I used a special
fuel made specifically for this engine from Coopers Custom
One of the
largest advantages of the RCV 90SP engine is its broad
range of propeller sizes.
2 Blade Prop - 16x14, 17x13, 18x12, 20x10
3 Blade Prop - 15.75x13
4 Blade Prop - 15.5x12
discussing with Otto Kudrna, a US distributor and
technical support rep, for the RCV product line, I decided
that I would try Zinger 18x12 and Zinger 20x10 wood props
to see what would give me the best performance. It is so
hard to imagine a 90 size 4 stroke swinging a 20x10 prop
and getting any performance out of it, but with the 2:1
gear reduction, the 90SP is a real powerhouse.
Zinger 18x12 Wooden
Prop that I Painted Black with Yellow Tips.
Download the manual in PDF format -
Download the sales sheet for the RCV SP series engine line
in PDF format -
The manual illustrates how to install a
conventional 2 or 4 stroke engine to this model. The required hardware
for those installations are included in the kit.
With the engine installed, the next step is
to install the fuel tank. I use a 3 line setup on my planes with a
supply line, vent line, and fill/drain line. The fuel tank fits through
the firewall and locks in position on the front of the servo tray. I
held it in place with tie straps.
LEFT: Fuel Tank Installed
Next I installed the cowl. This was probably
my favorite part of the model's assembly process. Why? Because only 2
small openings were required in the cowl; one for the needle valve and
one for the exhaust exit. These were easily done with a Dremel tool and
a sanding drum. The RCV 90SP fits perfect inside the cowl even with the
muffler attached. I did use some rubber tubing to extend the exhaust
just out the bottom opening of the cowl.
The Cowl is held in place by a plywood ring
that gets screwed to the firewall. The ring is about 1/2" larger than
the diameter of the fuselage. This leaves the required gap around the
cowl to give the model a very scale appearance. I was concerned about
cooling the engine and creating an escape are for the air to pass over
the engine. To accomplish this I cut the plywood ring in half and only
used the top portion and a small block for the bottom screw. This left
me an opening from 3 to 6 o'clock and 6 to 9 o'clock. I painted the
plywood black and installed it to the firewall with 4 self tapping
LEFT: Dummy Radial Engine Installed
RIGHT: Finished Cowl with Radial
The kit also came with a really nice plastic
radial engine to dress up the front of the plane. This was another
pleasant surprise. With the RCV 90SP I was not required to remove any of
the cylinder heads from the radial dummy engine. I did cut out the area
between each cylinder with a hobby knife to allow air to enter the
engine compartment. The radial engine fit perfectly over the front of
the 90SP. I mounted the radial to the cowl and held it in place with
some 5 minute epoxy. Then I slid the cowl onto the nose of the plane. I
had to drill 4 holes through the cowl into the plywood ring mounting
blocks and then I attached it with 4 screws. The finished result could
not be any more scale like if I tried. This RCV 90SP is an awesome
engine choice for anyone wishing to keep the scale appearance of a
Completed Canopy with Pilot.
The last finishing touch of the fuselage is
to install the canopy. The canopy is molded plastic and has been painted
to reflect the window frame. All that needed to be done was remove the
extra plastic around the outside and install it on the plane with 4
screws. I also ran a bead of canopy glue just to ensure that it would
not come off in flight.
I chose the
Futaba 9CAP system for the GSP Corsair. There are several reasons
for my selection. First off, the 9CAP is quite possibly the easiest
computer radio in the world to program. It gives me a lot of freedom to
setup the plane any way I want. Second, I like the 2 slider controls on
either side of the transmitter. These are perfect for flap control
because they do not require you to remove your thumbs from the sticks to
operate the flaps.
Complete Corsair with Futaba 9C
By this point the servos for the ailerons,
flaps, and retract control are already installed. The throttle,
rudder, and elevator are all that were left. These three servos
install in the openings on the servo tray in the fuselage. I connected
the elevator and rudder pushrod to the servo horn using a Z bend. I
used an EZ connector to install the throttle.
Throttle, Rudder, and
Elevator Servos Installed with the Receiver.
I used a 600 MAH battery to power this
plane. According to my calculations, this battery should give me about
6-7 flights before I need to recharge it.
I installed a Dubro Quick Switch Charge
Jack in the side of the fuselage to control the receiver switch and
have access to the charge jack.
I needed to use servo extensions on the
ailerons (12"), flaps (12"), and the retract servo (12"). These were all
secured to the servo leads with heat shrink tubing.
Finally I connected all the servo leads to
the receiver and using double sided foam tape, I mounted it between the
elevator and rudder servos on the servo tray.
Receiver and On-Board Glow Batteries
Installed on Either Side of the Engine Mounting Block.
(Note: Batteries have since been
wrapped in foam to protect them from vibration.)
At this time all that was left was to check
the CG on the plane. I bolted the wing on and set the Corsair up on my
Great Planes CG Machine with the CG set to 100mm per the manual. I
made sure the retracts were up before I tried to adjust the CG.
Note: When a plane has rotating retracts
that fold up back into the wing, always check the CG with the them
retracted in the wing. The CG will shift forward a bit when you lower
them for landing. If you balance the plane with them down, the CG could
shift too far back in flight making the plane uncontrollable.
Much to my dismay, the plane was balancing tail heavy. The CG range in
the manual is 95-105 mm from the leading edge. I readjusted the CG
machine to 105mm and it was still tail heavy. I removed the receiver
battery from under the fuel tank and placed in on the cowl in the same
position as the engine mounting block. It was getting better but still
tail heavy. I placed a second 600 Mah battery in the same position and
it began to balance slightly nose heavy, just the way I like it.
LEFT: Corsair on the Great Planes CG
Machine and Digital Scale.
Now I have a dilemma. I do not need 2
batteries in the plane and I hate to add lead to a model. So, I decided
to add a McDaniel On-board Glow
Driver. This system offers me a few benefits. With the glow plug
being so close to the prop, it provides me some safety. It requires a
4.8 volt battery pack which helps me with the nose weight that I need.
And it can be programmed to light the glow driver at a low throttle
setting giving me a much lower reliable idle. The control unit only
weighs 3 oz. and it fit perfectly under the fuel tank. I drilled a hole
in the firewall to pass the glow plug and battery wires through. On the
side of the fuselage, I installed the charge jack and LED for the
LEFT: McDaniel On-Board Glow
Control Unit Wrapped in Foam
RIGHT: Glow Clip Attached to
4.8 Volt Pulsed Digital On-Board Glow Driver
Electronics offers On-Board Glow Plug Driver Systems for
engines with one to ten glow plugs. They deliver power for
starting and maintaining idle during taxiing and power down
Driver is controlled by your transmitter either by using an
available channel with an on/off switch, or it can be
paralleled with your throttle servo using a "Y" cord for
automatic operation at low throttle settings. The control
unit features a fully adjustable set point for the unit to
turn on and off.
a remote L.E.D. to mount on the dashboard (or any convenient
place), visibly to show when glow plug power is switched on.
The unit features an external Deans Charge Jack for charging
and external boosting. The system runs off of a separate
4.8V battery pack.
Driver's electronics are packed in a plastic box for
protection. The included PlugLock is prewired for your glow
plug connection. The leads are supplied 18" long and may be
lengthened or shortened as needed. A special battery
connector with heavy duty wire for your battery pack is also
total on board weight without batteries for the model 471 is
approx 3.0 oz.
4.8 Volt Battery and charger is not included with the system
but can be purchased directly from McDaniel RC.
Works with 4.8V or
when Rx is powered off
on/off set point
Can be used with a
separate channel to activate or can be linked to the
LED for external
Takes only a few
minutes to install and setup