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pad[ Home > NitroPlanes.com R/C Airplanes Reviews and Articles > Review of the 90" Staudacher GS-300 ]



STAUDACHER
S-300

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by Gerry Yarrish


Manufacturer: NITROMODELS Planes, Inc.
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Distributed by: NitroPlanes.com
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Model name: Staudacher S-300
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Type: almost-ready-to-cover (ARC)
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Scale: 30 percent
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Length:78 in.
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Wingspan: 90 in.
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Wing area: 1,414 sq. in.
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Weight: 24 lb., 9 oz.
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Wing loading:40 oz./sq. ft.
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Engine req'd: 3.7 to 4.2ci
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Engine used: 3W-60 (60cc)
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Radio req'd: 4-channel (rudder, ailerons, throttle and elevator)
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Radio used: JR 8103 TX w/FMA Fortress RX and FMA 3601 servos
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Retail price: $599
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Comments: the model does not come with instructions, but they are available from the company's website. The kit comes 90-percent factory-built and includes gelcoated fiberglass engine cowl and wheel pants, tinted canopy, aluminum wing tube and landing gear.
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Hits
• Excellent workmanship throughout.
• Easy to set up; plug-in wing panels.
• Excellent flight characteristics.
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Misses
• Downloaded instructions are not of the same high quality as the rest of the kit. (All future kits will include CD-ROM instructions with digital pictures.)
 

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

Name: 3W-60
Displacement: 60cc (3.6ci)
Dimensions: 6x3.9 in.
Weight: 5.3 lb.
Horsepower: 6
Rpm range: 1,600 to 6,500
Prop range: 22x12 to 24x10
Price: $585 (muffler available separately)

staudacher1.jpg

 

A 30-percent-scale ARC for IMAC competition

The very first time that I saw the aircraft, I knew that one day I would have one in my stable of RC models. Its simple yet impressive lines, coupled with the striking red, white and black paint scheme, took up residence in the daydreaming area of my brain and stayed there for a very long time. The airplane I'm speaking of is the unlimited aerobatic, Jon Staudacher-designed S-300; specifically, the 300GS flown by airshow pilot and IAC World aerobatic competitor Michael Goulian. I first learned of the airplane's existence when I saw its photo on the cover of a book Mike Goulian co-wrote: "The Basics of Aerobatics." After that, I began to look for as much information on the 300GS as I could find. I even designed a 64-inch-span, .90 4-stroke-powered 300GS to satisfy my need for a flying model. You can imagine my delight when, at the '99 WRAM show in Westchester, NY, I learned that NitroPlanes.com (GSP.com) had come out with a 30-percent scale, almost-ready-to-cover (ARC) version of my favorite aerobat.

WHAT YOU GET

Distributed by Hobbies & Helis Intl.*, the GSP.com Staudacher comes in a fairly large container and is 90-percent factory-built, leaving only the most basic of assembly tasks to the modeler. Included are the fuselage with wing-mount-tube assembly installed, but not glued into place, two wing panels completely covered with balsa and the ailerons already cut out. All the tail surfaces come built and are ready to hinge and install. Also included are the aluminum wing tube, a formed aluminum landing gear, a tinted canopy, a gelcoated fiberglass engine cowl and wheel pants. An impressive collection of control hardware, nuts, bolts and washers is available separately. Since it's an ARC, the model does not include covering material and decals, nor are there any paper instructions in the box. This Staudacher is an advanced design that's intended for experienced pilots, so GSP.com has chosen not to include any paper instructions; they may, however, be downloaded from the GSP website at www.NitroPlanes.com. I do advise that you download the instructions before you begin assembly. [Editors' note: a CD-ROM with instructions will be included in future kits.]

ASSEMBLY

Assembly begins with hinging the ailerons to the wing panels and installing the aileron servos. The wing panels come with the wing-tube sockets already installed and the servo-wire-lead channels already cut for you. I used large Robart* HingePoint hinges for the ailerons as well as for the rest of the control surfaces. I drilled the holes for the hinges with a length of sharpened, 3/16-inch diameter brass tube chucked in my electric hand drill. Do not epoxy the aileron hinges into place until after the model is covered. Rocket City* hardware is supplied in the optional hardware package, and I used it with my evaluation kit. The aileron control horns, the rudder and elevator horns are made from long, threaded rods and use heavy-duty clevis connectors.

The next step is to attach the wing panels to the fuselage and check for proper wingtip-to-tail alignment. When I assembled the wings and fuselage, I found a difference of about 1/4 inch between the two side measurements. To fix this and to make the wing panels sit flush against the fuselage sides, I had to adjust the placement of the fiberglass alignment tube inside the fuselage. I used a moto-tool to elongate the holes in the sides of the fuselage so the alignment tube could move around. I then reinstalled the wing panels and when everything lined up properly, I epoxied 32 blind nuts for the tailwheel assembly's attachment. Having the fuselage sitting on its landing gear makes it much easier to work on the engine installation.

staudacher2.jpg Left: FMA S3601 coreless servos control the rudder and elevator halves. The servo-mount openings are already cut for you.

Right: This large opening in the firewall allows the engine's rear-induction system to be passed through it and then placed inside the model. Note the engine soft mounts are in place.
 

 

ENGINE INSTALLATION

For power, I chose a 3W-60 (60cc) gas engine from Cactus Aviation*. I also used Scale Aviation USA blue soft mounts (60 durometer) to install the engine to the engine box. Because the 3W-60 is a rear-induction engine, I had to cut a large opening in the firewall to allow the carb and induction system to pass through. This placed the carb well within the firewall box structure. I also removed the lower portion of the firewall to clear the Johnson* smoke-equipped Pitts-style muffler. Though I did remove a large amount of wood from the firewall, it has proven to be more than strong enough to withstand the vibration and torque of the engine. The length of the 3W-60 required that the sides of the fuselage at the firewall be extended forward about 1 inch so that there is something to screw the cowl to. I added 1/4-inch balsa sheet and plywood hard points to the face of the firewall and installed 2-56 blind nuts to use in attaching the cowl. The added fuselage length is hardly noticeable. The electronic ignition is powered by a 1400mAh battery on top of the engine box, just in front of the firewall.

Finishing up the powerplant is a 41/2-inch Tru-Turn* spinner, a 22x12 Zinger* prop and a Don Harris* smoke pump system. I used a three-line system for both the fuel and smoke fluid tanks, and I chose B&B* smoke fluid. To keep the smoke pump clean, I installed a brass filter/clunk in the smoke tank and placed an in-line filter between the tank and the pump. Like a receiver, the smoke pump is wrapped with foam and is held in place with rubber bands above the fuel and smoke tanks. I handle refueling and filling the smoke tank with EZ-Filler fittings attached to the main fuselage hatch.

RADIO GEAR AND FINISH

I used a JR* 8103 TX and an FMA* Fortress receiver and FMA 3601 servos for rudder and elevator control. I used JR-4721 servos on the ailerons. A standard FMA servo controls the throttle, and the Don Harris smoke pump plugs directly into the receiver (I chose the gear switch for smoke-on control). I used a 4-cell, 1,500mAh battery pack to power the radio; the rudder and elevator servos are in the tail, just under the LE of the horizontal stab. Thirty-inch-long servo-extension leads (four of them) connect the servos to the receiver. I used a cardboard tube as a conduit to guide the leads from the tail to the radio compartment, just in front of the cockpit. The receiver sits on a lite-ply plate that's glued to the aft portion of the internal engine-box structure. To prevent engine ignition noise from migrating to the radio system, I used a plastic Sullivan* Nyrod to connect the throttle servo to the carb.

I covered the model completely with Carl Goldberg Models'* new Ultracote Supreme film. This new, iron-on covering has a silver backing to render it completely opaque and prevent strong sunlight from shining through the model's structure. One thing that you must do when using Ultracote Supreme is to mount your receiver antenna externally on the model. Because it has the silver undercoating, the covering will shield an internally mounted antenna and can contribute to signal loss. This warning is printed on the covering's packaging and should be heeded.

staudacher3.jpg Left: A requirement for IMAC competition, the instrument panel and pilot bust are nice touches for the front office.

Right: With the main fuselage hatch removed, you have total access to the radio and fuel system. Notice the Don Harris smoke pump mounted just above the fuel tank.
 

The decals that turn the model into Michael Goulian's 300GS come from Butch Andrews of Model Graphics*. These vinyl, stick-on decals are simply great and are very easy to apply either wet or dry. I painted the top portion of the white, gelcoated engine cowl with Ultracote paint and painted on the black stripe to match the film stripe ironed into place on the fuselage. My only real challenge in covering a model of this size was getting used to how much covering was actually needed to do the job. Six rolls in all were required with a fair amount of scrap left over. Since I did not want to have several seams along the length of the fuselage, I unrolled the covering film completely and cut the pieces for the sides and bottom lengthwise from the roll. When overlapping the various colors and to keep the edges straight, I found it helpful to cut the covering oversize and then tape it into position with masking tape before tacking it into place with the iron. The end result is definitely worth the extra effort.

The finishing touches were the addition of a homemade instrument panel and a Hangar 9* 1/3-scale pilot figure inside the cockpit. Since these are also required for IMAC competition, there is no reason not to include them, as they add so much to the model's finished appearance.

FINAL SETUP

The instructions indicate that the CG should be between 1.75 and 2 inches in front of the former that sits just in front of the wing-mounting tube. I found this to be conservative; the model flew beautifully with the CG 1 inch in front of this former. Several highly experienced pilots have indicated that a CG placed at the LE of the wing tube is also acceptable for advanced performance. I added 9 ounces of lead to the nose of the model attached to an aluminum extension to bring the weight as far forward as possible (next to the engine case). Also, if you use a 3W-60 or any other rear-induction engine, you should add a vent to the fuselage so air can be drawn in to feed the carb. I added a vent to the rear servo-access panel under the stab.

The first time I ran the engine, I knew that it would be a perfect match for the Staudacher. Total building time, including covering, was 25 to 30 hours; a very short time compared to building a complete wood kit. I enjoyed assembling and flying the NitroPlanes.com Staudacher very much, and I am completely happy with its performance. If you want to break the Extra, CAP and Giles habit, why not give the Staudacher a try? Go ahead; you know you want to!

*Addresses are listed alphabetically in the Index of Manufacturers in the magazine.

 

FLIGHT PERFORMANCE


• TAKEOFF AND LANDING

The S-300 leaves the ground at just above 1/3 throttle with very little up- elevator required. It's such a big model that almost no rudder was needed to keep it tracking straight down the runway (if you apply throttle slowly). At slow speeds, the aileron control comes online right away, and the model feels very comfortable. Once airborne, climb-out is effortless at about 1/2 throttle, and if you feel the need for some vertical right after takeoff, full power will have you at cloud level in no time.

The Staudacher likes to be set up for a wheel landing, so don't pull power much past 1/8 throttle. Keep the nose down and don't try 3-point landings, as the wing will stop flying abruptly and you could find yourself too low, too slow and out of options. When you have the field made, pull the throttle back to just above idle and let the model settle onto the gear. A little push of down-elevator will stick the model onto the ground, then let the model slow down on its own. Not much rudder is needed unless you have a crosswind; when you do crank in some rudder, the model yaws very nicely and gives you excellent control. On my first landing, I did not have the idle low enough, and the model sailed by about 4 feet above the ground. On the next attempt, I slipped the model slightly to scrub off some airspeed just before touchdown.

• SLOW-FLIGHT PERFORMANCE

Slowed down for picture-taking, the model behaved nicely. A bit of power is required when you pull back on the elevator, but I felt very comfortable doing top-rudder passes for the camera. On one pass, I slowed the Staudacher down a little too much, and it began to stall. I added power, dropped the nose slightly, and the model flew out of the situation easily without dropping a wingtip.

At a high altitude, I pulled the power to idle and slowly pulled back on the elevator stick. When the model stalled, it dropped its nose and mushed forward; nothing unusual there. It's such a large model that it takes some getting used to before you can tell whether you're going too slow.

• AEROBATICS

This is what the Staudacher is all about. From the start, you know you have a potent design and that the only limitations will be your imagination and experience level. I started out slowly and worked up the ladder to more aggressive maneuvers. First, I cranked in full-deflection aileron rolls. On low rates (1 inch up and down), the model takes about 1 second to go through 360 degrees. On high rate (13/8 inches up and down), you get about 11/4 rolls in the same time. For my style of flying, this is very manageable. Next, I applied full power and pulled back on the stick for a big, very tall loop. Here, you understand the phrase, "There's no substitute for power." The Staudacher reached the top of the loop with no effort at all, and I actually started pulling power back on the way up so I was at about 1/2 throttle as I reached the inverted position. To round out the loop, I released pressure on the stick and let the model float a little before letting gravity take over; I pulled power to about 1/4 throttle as the model headed down the back side. At about the 5 o'clock position, I pulled in more up-elevator and brought the power back up and the model exited cleanly—straight and level. Perhaps it is because of the model's mass, but I did not have to apply much rudder at all to keep it on track and the loop vertical. Of course, there was almost no wind.

Combining rolls and loops is what aerobatics are all about, and the Staudacher handles everything effortlessly. I really enjoyed doing 1/2-Cuban-8s with the smoke system turned on. Having that smoke tracer behind you is a big help when you try to keep things lined up. Several times, I was able to cut back into the end of my smoke trail as I exited a maneuver—very cool. Knife-edge requires some power and about 1/2 rudder-stick deflection. That long, flat-sided fuselage really helps extend the maneuver. Inverted flight is also effortless, and some forward stick is required. Spins do require that you fully stall the model before cranking in full rudder and aileron. If you enter with too much airspeed, the spin quickly becomes a spiral dive. Inverted spins are also easily accomplished. When you let go of the sticks, the model stops spinning in just under 1/3 of a spin. Some opposite rudder should speed recovery time.

The NitroPlanes.com Staudacher is perhaps the most exhilarating model I have ever flown. Powered by the 3W-60 engine, it is truly an unlimited aerobatic performer.
 

3W-60 POWER

The 3W engines from Cactus Aviation are powerful, well-made powerplants imported from Germany. Each 3W engine comes with an electronic auto-advance ignition system and a six-bolt prop hub. Since the 3W-60 I used to power the Staudacher is a rear-induction engine, it also came with an aluminum mount plate. An ignition 1,400mAh battery pack and switch harness is also available from Cactus Aviation.

staudacher4.jpg

Having a rear-mounted induction system and carb means that you have to install the engine so the carb passes through the firewall assembly. Also, having the carb inside the fuselage requires you to vent the fuse somehow. I installed a vent in the back of my model's fuselage, cut into the rear servo-access hatch. This is a good news, bad news situation; it's very good that the engine will not be likely to "ingest" something at the flying field, as the carb is well protected from debris, but its location inside the fuse makes it a challenge to adjust the carb and choke.

To gain access to the needle valves, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the engine box just behind the muffler; the hole was just big enough to allow me to insert a long, skinny screwdriver. Unlike the way you do it with a glow engine, you must only adjust the carbs when the engine is not running. Also, the carb's choke butterfly has to be manually operated and, since it's inside the fuselage, the choke linkage must be custom-fit to the engine. I used a very simple setup on my model; it consisted of a single length of 4-40 threaded pushrod. The pushrod wire is attached to the choke with a common metal clevis that screws onto the end of the wire. The pushrod leads aft from the carb and, to clear the fuel tank, it has a mild jog bent into it. The pushrod wire goes through a brass guide tube that is glued to one of the fuselage formers; the end of the wire is bent at a 90-degree angle. The bent portion is about 1/2 inch long and exits the fuselage through a slot cut into the fuselage side, just below the main fuselage hatch. Sliding the pushrod end forward opens the choke; pulling it aft closes it. The system works extremely well and keeps your helper's fingers well away from the prop while starting the engine.


 

staudacher5.jpg

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