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Manufacturer: NITROMODELS Planes, Inc. Distributed by: NitroPlanes.com Model name: Staudacher S-300 Type: almost-ready-to-cover (ARC) Scale: 30 percent Length:78 in. Wingspan: 90 in. Wing area: 1,414 sq. in. Weight: 24 lb., 9 oz. Wing loading:40 oz./sq. ft. Engine req'd: 3.7 to 4.2ci Engine used: 3W-60 (60cc) Radio req'd: 4-channel (rudder, ailerons, throttle and elevator) Radio used: JR 8103 TX w/FMA Fortress RX and FMA 3601 servos Retail price: $599 Comments: the model does not come with instructions, but they are
available from the company's website. The kit comes 90-percent
factory-built and includes gelcoated fiberglass engine cowl and wheel
pants, tinted canopy, aluminum wing tube and landing gear. Hits
• Excellent workmanship throughout.
• Easy to set up; plug-in wing panels.
• Excellent flight characteristics. Misses
• Downloaded instructions are not of the same high quality as the rest
of the kit. (All future kits will include CD-ROM instructions with
digital pictures.)
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Name: 3W-60 Displacement: 60cc (3.6ci) Dimensions: 6x3.9 in. Weight: 5.3 lb. Horsepower: 6 Rpm range: 1,600 to 6,500 Prop range: 22x12 to 24x10 Price: $585 (muffler available separately)
A 30-percent-scale ARC
for IMAC competition
The very first time that I saw the
aircraft, I knew that one day I would have one in my stable of RC models. Its
simple yet impressive lines, coupled with the striking red, white and black
paint scheme, took up residence in the daydreaming area of my brain and stayed
there for a very long time. The airplane I'm speaking of is the unlimited
aerobatic, Jon Staudacher-designed S-300; specifically, the 300GS flown by
airshow pilot and IAC World aerobatic competitor Michael Goulian. I first
learned of the airplane's existence when I saw its photo on the cover of a book
Mike Goulian co-wrote: "The Basics of Aerobatics." After that, I began to look
for as much information on the 300GS as I could find. I even designed a
64-inch-span, .90 4-stroke-powered 300GS to satisfy my need for a flying model.
You can imagine my delight when, at the '99 WRAM show in Westchester, NY, I
learned that NitroPlanes.com (GSP.com) had come out with a 30-percent scale,
almost-ready-to-cover (ARC) version of my favorite aerobat.
WHAT YOU GET
Distributed by Hobbies & Helis Intl.*, the GSP.com Staudacher comes in a
fairly large container and is 90-percent factory-built, leaving only the most
basic of assembly tasks to the modeler. Included are the fuselage with
wing-mount-tube assembly installed, but not glued into place, two wing panels
completely covered with balsa and the ailerons already cut out. All the tail
surfaces come built and are ready to hinge and install. Also included are the
aluminum wing tube, a formed aluminum landing gear, a tinted canopy, a gelcoated
fiberglass engine cowl and wheel pants. An impressive collection of control
hardware, nuts, bolts and washers is available separately. Since it's an ARC,
the model does not include covering material and decals, nor are there any paper
instructions in the box. This Staudacher is an advanced design that's intended
for experienced pilots, so GSP.com has chosen not to include any paper
instructions; they may, however, be downloaded from the GSP website at
www.NitroPlanes.com. I do advise that you download the instructions before you
begin assembly. [Editors' note: a CD-ROM with instructions will be included
in future kits.]
ASSEMBLY
Assembly begins with hinging the ailerons to the wing panels and installing
the aileron servos. The wing panels come with the wing-tube sockets already
installed and the servo-wire-lead channels already cut for you. I used large
Robart* HingePoint hinges for the ailerons as well as for the rest of the
control surfaces. I drilled the holes for the hinges with a length of sharpened,
3/16-inch diameter brass tube chucked in my electric hand drill. Do not epoxy
the aileron hinges into place until after the model is covered. Rocket City*
hardware is supplied in the optional hardware package, and I used it with my
evaluation kit. The aileron control horns, the rudder and elevator horns are
made from long, threaded rods and use heavy-duty clevis connectors.
The next step is to attach the wing panels to the fuselage and check for
proper wingtip-to-tail alignment. When I assembled the wings and fuselage, I
found a difference of about 1/4 inch between the two side measurements. To fix
this and to make the wing panels sit flush against the fuselage sides, I had to
adjust the placement of the fiberglass alignment tube inside the fuselage. I
used a moto-tool to elongate the holes in the sides of the fuselage so the
alignment tube could move around. I then reinstalled the wing panels and when
everything lined up properly, I epoxied 32 blind nuts for the tailwheel
assembly's attachment. Having the fuselage sitting on its landing gear makes it
much easier to work on the engine installation.
Left: FMA S3601
coreless servos control the rudder and elevator halves. The servo-mount openings
are already cut for you.
Right: This large opening in the firewall allows the engine's rear-induction
system to be passed through it and then placed inside the model. Note the engine
soft mounts are in place.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
For power, I chose a 3W-60 (60cc) gas engine from Cactus Aviation*. I also
used Scale Aviation USA blue soft mounts (60 durometer) to install the engine to
the engine box. Because the 3W-60 is a rear-induction engine, I had to cut a
large opening in the firewall to allow the carb and induction system to pass
through. This placed the carb well within the firewall box structure. I also
removed the lower portion of the firewall to clear the Johnson* smoke-equipped
Pitts-style muffler. Though I did remove a large amount of wood from the
firewall, it has proven to be more than strong enough to withstand the vibration
and torque of the engine. The length of the 3W-60 required that the sides of the
fuselage at the firewall be extended forward about 1 inch so that there is
something to screw the cowl to. I added 1/4-inch balsa sheet and plywood hard
points to the face of the firewall and installed 2-56 blind nuts to use in
attaching the cowl. The added fuselage length is hardly noticeable. The
electronic ignition is powered by a 1400mAh battery on top of the engine box,
just in front of the firewall.
Finishing up the powerplant is a 41/2-inch Tru-Turn* spinner, a 22x12 Zinger*
prop and a Don Harris* smoke pump system. I used a three-line system for both
the fuel and smoke fluid tanks, and I chose B&B* smoke fluid. To keep the smoke
pump clean, I installed a brass filter/clunk in the smoke tank and placed an
in-line filter between the tank and the pump. Like a receiver, the smoke pump is
wrapped with foam and is held in place with rubber bands above the fuel and
smoke tanks. I handle refueling and filling the smoke tank with EZ-Filler
fittings attached to the main fuselage hatch.
RADIO GEAR AND FINISH
I used a JR* 8103 TX and an FMA* Fortress receiver and FMA 3601 servos for
rudder and elevator control. I used JR-4721 servos on the ailerons. A standard
FMA servo controls the throttle, and the Don Harris smoke pump plugs directly
into the receiver (I chose the gear switch for smoke-on control). I used a
4-cell, 1,500mAh battery pack to power the radio; the rudder and elevator servos
are in the tail, just under the LE of the horizontal stab. Thirty-inch-long
servo-extension leads (four of them) connect the servos to the receiver. I used
a cardboard tube as a conduit to guide the leads from the tail to the radio
compartment, just in front of the cockpit. The receiver sits on a lite-ply plate
that's glued to the aft portion of the internal engine-box structure. To prevent
engine ignition noise from migrating to the radio system, I used a plastic
Sullivan* Nyrod to connect the throttle servo to the carb.
I covered the model completely with Carl Goldberg Models'* new Ultracote
Supreme film. This new, iron-on covering has a silver backing to render it
completely opaque and prevent strong sunlight from shining through the model's
structure. One thing that you must do when using Ultracote Supreme is to mount
your receiver antenna externally on the model. Because it has the silver
undercoating, the covering will shield an internally mounted antenna and can
contribute to signal loss. This warning is printed on the covering's packaging
and should be heeded.
Left: A requirement
for IMAC competition, the instrument panel and pilot bust are nice touches for
the front office.
Right: With the main fuselage hatch removed, you have total access to the
radio and fuel system. Notice the Don Harris smoke pump mounted just above the
fuel tank.
The decals that turn the model into Michael Goulian's 300GS come from Butch
Andrews of Model Graphics*. These vinyl, stick-on decals are simply great and
are very easy to apply either wet or dry. I painted the top portion of the
white, gelcoated engine cowl with Ultracote paint and painted on the black
stripe to match the film stripe ironed into place on the fuselage. My only real
challenge in covering a model of this size was getting used to how much covering
was actually needed to do the job. Six rolls in all were required with a fair
amount of scrap left over. Since I did not want to have several seams along the
length of the fuselage, I unrolled the covering film completely and cut the
pieces for the sides and bottom lengthwise from the roll. When overlapping the
various colors and to keep the edges straight, I found it helpful to cut the
covering oversize and then tape it into position with masking tape before
tacking it into place with the iron. The end result is definitely worth the
extra effort.
The finishing touches were the addition of a homemade instrument panel and a
Hangar 9* 1/3-scale pilot figure inside the cockpit. Since these are also
required for IMAC competition, there is no reason not to include them, as they
add so much to the model's finished appearance.
FINAL SETUP
The instructions indicate that the CG should be between 1.75 and 2 inches in
front of the former that sits just in front of the wing-mounting tube. I found
this to be conservative; the model flew beautifully with the CG 1 inch in front
of this former. Several highly experienced pilots have indicated that a CG
placed at the LE of the wing tube is also acceptable for advanced performance. I
added 9 ounces of lead to the nose of the model attached to an aluminum
extension to bring the weight as far forward as possible (next to the engine
case). Also, if you use a 3W-60 or any other rear-induction engine, you should
add a vent to the fuselage so air can be drawn in to feed the carb. I added a
vent to the rear servo-access panel under the stab.
The first time I ran the engine, I knew that it would be a perfect match for
the Staudacher. Total building time, including covering, was 25 to 30 hours; a
very short time compared to building a complete wood kit. I enjoyed assembling
and flying the NitroPlanes.com Staudacher very much, and I am completely happy
with its performance. If you want to break the Extra, CAP and Giles habit, why
not give the Staudacher a try? Go ahead; you know you want to!
*Addresses are listed alphabetically in the Index of Manufacturers in
the magazine.
FLIGHT PERFORMANCE
• TAKEOFF AND LANDING
The S-300 leaves the ground at just above 1/3 throttle with very little up-
elevator required. It's such a big model that almost no rudder was needed to
keep it tracking straight down the runway (if you apply throttle slowly). At
slow speeds, the aileron control comes online right away, and the model
feels very comfortable. Once airborne, climb-out is effortless at about 1/2
throttle, and if you feel the need for some vertical right after takeoff,
full power will have you at cloud level in no time.
The Staudacher likes to be set up for a wheel landing, so don't pull
power much past 1/8 throttle. Keep the nose down and don't try 3-point
landings, as the wing will stop flying abruptly and you could find yourself
too low, too slow and out of options. When you have the field made, pull the
throttle back to just above idle and let the model settle onto the gear. A
little push of down-elevator will stick the model onto the ground, then let
the model slow down on its own. Not much rudder is needed unless you have a
crosswind; when you do crank in some rudder, the model yaws very nicely and
gives you excellent control. On my first landing, I did not have the idle
low enough, and the model sailed by about 4 feet above the ground. On the
next attempt, I slipped the model slightly to scrub off some airspeed just
before touchdown.
• SLOW-FLIGHT PERFORMANCE
Slowed down for picture-taking, the model behaved nicely. A bit of power is
required when you pull back on the elevator, but I felt very comfortable
doing top-rudder passes for the camera. On one pass, I slowed the Staudacher
down a little too much, and it began to stall. I added power, dropped the
nose slightly, and the model flew out of the situation easily without
dropping a wingtip.
At a high altitude, I pulled the power to idle and slowly pulled back on
the elevator stick. When the model stalled, it dropped its nose and mushed
forward; nothing unusual there. It's such a large model that it takes some
getting used to before you can tell whether you're going too slow.
• AEROBATICS
This is what the Staudacher is all about. From the start, you know you have
a potent design and that the only limitations will be your imagination and
experience level. I started out slowly and worked up the ladder to more
aggressive maneuvers. First, I cranked in full-deflection aileron rolls. On
low rates (1 inch up and down), the model takes about 1 second to go through
360 degrees. On high rate (13/8 inches up and down), you get about 11/4
rolls in the same time. For my style of flying, this is very manageable.
Next, I applied full power and pulled back on the stick for a big, very tall
loop. Here, you understand the phrase, "There's no substitute for power."
The Staudacher reached the top of the loop with no effort at all, and I
actually started pulling power back on the way up so I was at about 1/2
throttle as I reached the inverted position. To round out the loop, I
released pressure on the stick and let the model float a little before
letting gravity take over; I pulled power to about 1/4 throttle as the model
headed down the back side. At about the 5 o'clock position, I pulled in more
up-elevator and brought the power back up and the model exited
cleanly—straight and level. Perhaps it is because of the model's mass, but I
did not have to apply much rudder at all to keep it on track and the loop
vertical. Of course, there was almost no wind.
Combining rolls and loops is what aerobatics are all about, and the
Staudacher handles everything effortlessly. I really enjoyed doing
1/2-Cuban-8s with the smoke system turned on. Having that smoke tracer
behind you is a big help when you try to keep things lined up. Several
times, I was able to cut back into the end of my smoke trail as I exited a
maneuver—very cool. Knife-edge requires some power and about 1/2
rudder-stick deflection. That long, flat-sided fuselage really helps extend
the maneuver. Inverted flight is also effortless, and some forward stick is
required. Spins do require that you fully stall the model before cranking in
full rudder and aileron. If you enter with too much airspeed, the spin
quickly becomes a spiral dive. Inverted spins are also easily accomplished.
When you let go of the sticks, the model stops spinning in just under 1/3 of
a spin. Some opposite rudder should speed recovery time.
The NitroPlanes.com Staudacher is perhaps the most exhilarating model I
have ever flown. Powered by the 3W-60 engine, it is truly an unlimited
aerobatic performer.
3W-60 POWER
The 3W engines from Cactus Aviation are powerful,
well-made powerplants imported from Germany. Each 3W engine comes with
an electronic auto-advance ignition system and a six-bolt prop hub.
Since the 3W-60 I used to power the Staudacher is a rear-induction
engine, it also came with an aluminum mount plate. An ignition 1,400mAh
battery pack and switch harness is also available from Cactus Aviation.
Having a rear-mounted induction system and carb means that you have
to install the engine so the carb passes through the firewall assembly.
Also, having the carb inside the fuselage requires you to vent the fuse
somehow. I installed a vent in the back of my model's fuselage, cut into
the rear servo-access hatch. This is a good news, bad news situation;
it's very good that the engine will not be likely to "ingest" something
at the flying field, as the carb is well protected from debris, but its
location inside the fuse makes it a challenge to adjust the carb and
choke.
To gain access to the needle valves, I drilled a hole in the bottom
of the engine box just behind the muffler; the hole was just big enough
to allow me to insert a long, skinny screwdriver. Unlike the way you do
it with a glow engine, you must only adjust the carbs when the engine is
not running. Also, the carb's choke butterfly has to be manually
operated and, since it's inside the fuselage, the choke linkage must be
custom-fit to the engine. I used a very simple setup on my model; it
consisted of a single length of 4-40 threaded pushrod. The pushrod wire
is attached to the choke with a common metal clevis that screws onto the
end of the wire. The pushrod leads aft from the carb and, to clear the
fuel tank, it has a mild jog bent into it. The pushrod wire goes through
a brass guide tube that is glued to one of the fuselage formers; the end
of the wire is bent at a 90-degree angle. The bent portion is about 1/2
inch long and exits the fuselage through a slot cut into the fuselage
side, just below the main fuselage hatch. Sliding the pushrod end
forward opens the choke; pulling it aft closes it. The system works
extremely well and keeps your helper's fingers well away from the prop
while starting the engine.
Note for
International Buyers - If you are located
outside of the United States/Canada, and wish to order one of our Nitro
Planes, please note that any size 40 or above ARF Planes are unable to ship
outside of the United States and Canada. Please consider 15 to 25 size model
planes or other smaller size goods. We value your business! You may
consider ordering electric planes or helicopters! : )
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